The Women’s Market, Sofia

1

Everyone keeps going to the market entrance,

but Khairi takes me aside to treat me

to Arabic pita bread.

I choose savoury. ‘Salaam alaikum,’ says

Khairi as he takes the snacks. The baker

nods respectfully. It means ‘peace be with you’,

I am told, but you stop thinking about the meaning

when you’ve got used to peace.

‘Where did you two get to?’ asks Niki Boykov later.

We are standing between Dubai Marquee

and Zoran’s Serbian Grill.

‘In the Iraqi bakery.’

‘I don’t think I know it. Not the Bagdadi one?’

‘No, the whole of Iraq. Just down

from the Syrian bakery.’

Travelling the world is difficult –

we can’t always do it. But in the market

it takes just a few steps.

And there you are:

some as if they’re aboard,

others as if they’re home.

2

‘The world is flat,’ writes Thomas Friedman

from the New York Times’ high tower.

But the world’s not like that in the Women’s Market,

it's as round as a peach,

as bright as a tomato, curly like kale,

hunched like the underwear seller,

dark as the woman with the potatoes.

There’s no way to see this from 

The Big Apple but even here you can’t

miss it. New York written on tracksuits

hanging by the Tommy Hilfiger shirts. The clothes

are almost brands, almost festive,

pretty wearable,

the names of vague dreams 

written across their chests.

Globalisation came here long ago

through the back entrance,

locked itself tight in the market

and remained unseen by the world.

The synagogue and mosque can confirm this,

but officially they don’t talk to each other.

3

A little garden in front of the monument

to Georgi Kirkov, socialist politician,

perched on by pigeons.

Bunches of leeks line up beneath

his stone gaze, children screaming around,

three young Gypsies, hair cut like Mohicans,

argue about a Facebook status, two girls

stealthily circle my bag.

Kirkov defended the poor and 

the Women’s Market was named  

after him for a time.

Then the women took back the name

and the poor stayed poor.

They circle his monument.

They don’t give two bucks for him.

If you’ve got two bucks, give them to the grill.

If you don’t, take them from your neighbour.

Or go on Facebook.

It’s free.


4

Socrates loved markets. They reminded him

of how many things he didn’t need.

The legless lady beggar would hardly

say the same. Do we expect her

to say anything at all?

The Tower of Babel might be a blessing.

I give the lady beggar a lev for the right

to imagine I’m good.


Translated by Tom Phillips

The original Bulgarian text was published in:  

Literaturen vestnik (Literary Newspaper), 39, 27.11-3.12.2019,

Nova socialna poezia (New social poetry), 20, 2020

The English text first appeared in:

Blackbox Manifold

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